It took us 85 minutes to trek from Dirapuk to Shiva Tsal (5330m), said to be a replica of the fabled burial ground at Bodh Gaya India. To be reborn one must first die, and here the pilgrims face Yama, the Lord of Death, whose judgment purifies him for the new life awarded atop the Dölma La. It is a rocky expanse dotted with stone cairns draped with items of clothing. Pilgrims are supposed to undergo a symbolic death at this point, leaving their old life behind along with an item of clothing to represent it, a drop of blood or a lock of hair. I left a pair of socks while Pete left a hat.